Elisabetta Foradori is a pioneering figure in both the indie/natural wine world and the movement championing the vinification of indigenous varietals. Her main focus is the red grape teroldego, ancient grape of Trentino (first mentioned in writing in the 14th Century), which finds its most alluring form when grown in the small alluvial area of Campo Rotaliano, just north of the city of Trento, where Elisabetta has her vineyards.

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This is the Dolomite Alps, which tower over the low valleys of Trentino in all their limestone splendor. One such valley is carved out by the Noce River, along whose banks the town of Mezzolombardo sits, home to the Foradori family and winery.

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Sgarzon is a single-vineyard bottling of teroldego (one of only two single-vineyard teroldegos from Foradori and the smallest production of any of the Foradori reds). Elisabetta's son, Emilio, is now the principal winemaker, and her other son, Theo, and daughter, Myrtha, are involved as well.

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The 2018 is aromatic with bitter pomegranate and dried roses, a twiggy herbaceousness, and full of spice and black pepper as it opens up. Drink it with cured pork or gamey meats, chicken, or creamy sheep's-milk cheeses.