2019 Bodegas Albamar Albariño

Located in the heart of the Val do Salnés, itself the heart of the Rías Baixas, and the birthplace of albariño, Bodegas Albamar is as close to the soul of albariño as it gets. It's also very close to the water, the vineyards running sometimes within 100 yards of the ocean, and the wines developing the classic saline quality of many Rías albariños.

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Xurxo likes to experiment with this most famed grape of Galicia, and will make anywhere from 10 to 20 cuvées (of both whites and reds) depending on the vintage. This 2019 Albamar albariño is crisp with high-toned citrus, round apricot and sour white nectarine, and a green stalky overtone.

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The grapes for this bottling come from various plots around the Salnés. Xurxo only owns roughly 2.5 hectares, all in small plots. The Rías, similar to Burgundy, is divided up between many families and generations of families, and this is reflected in the checkerboard parceling of the vineyards.

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Vintners here use the parra trellising system, keeping the grapes high off the humid ground in a pergola canopy, under which the sea breeze can help keep mildew at bay, and the sun ripen the grapes evenly from above.

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