Walter Massa is the figure when it comes to timorasso, the native white grape of the Colli Tortonesi in southeastern Piemonte. The varietal was nearly extinct before Massa reinvigorated its production, beginning in 1988 with only three hectares remaining of the indigenous grape. Today, after three decades of determined work and persistence, timorasso wines are on the lists of every fine-dining Italian restaurant in Europe and the United States.

Massa's winery is in Monleale, a tiny hill town about 10km east of Tortona, near the border with Lombardia. "Derthona" is the old Latin name of Tortona (Colli Tortonesi means the "Hill of Tortona").

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Timorasso does not mess around. This bottle comes in at 13.5% alcohol (the minimum requirement under DOC rules is 12%), with a deep golden color, and a rich and full-bodied palate. Massa makes 3 single-vineyard timorassos, and the "Derthona" is his blend of his best timorasso sites (the "Derthona" label, which Massa has trademarked, may achieve its own special DOC status later this year). 
 

This 2017 opens up into nutty, floral madness, with a bit of petrol (like you can get with aged riesling), followed by intensely honeyed fruit, some tropical fruit notes like lychee on the palate, and a searing acidic finish. Drink it with creamy fish dishes, Piemontese agnolotti, or roast chicken.