2019 Damiano Ciolli Silene Cesanese
Damiano Ciolli took over the family-run winery in 2001 (the fourth generation of the Ciolli family to do so) and immediately began producing his own wines instead of selling the grapes to other producers as the family had done for decades. He and his partner, Letizia Rocchi, now farm the grapes and make the wines in the rolling hills of Olevano Romano, 50km due east of Rome.
The wines here are made almost exclusively from the cesanese grape, of which there are two related clones: cesanese comune and cesanese di Affile. The latter makes up 100% of the wine here and is considered the far better varietal. The soils are iron-rich and volcanic.
This 2019 Silene (silene is the name of a local jug-shaped wildflower, depicted on the label) is chewy spiced dark cherry and herbaceous bitter sage and green herbs on the palate, with black tea leaf tannins, a bit burnt on the finish. It also has a bit of a weighty, baking spice finish. It's good with a juicy steak, mushroom pizza, or the Lazio speciality bucatini all'amatriciana.

Producer: Damiano Ciolli
Name of Wine: Silene
Vintage: 2019
Region: Lazio, Italy
Appellation: Olevano Romano DOC
Varietal(s): 100% cesanese di Affile
Agriculture: organic
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Vineyard/Winery Location: Olevano Romano, Lazio, Italy
Vineyard Size: 7 hectares
Soil Type(s): iron-rich volcanic
Altitude: 450m / 1475ft
Exposure: south
Trellis: Spurred Cordon
Vineyard Density: 5000 vines/hectare
Age of Vines: 18-40+ years
Harvest: hand harvested
Yield: 7500 kilograms/hectare
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Yeasts: native yeasts
Maceration: 10 days
Alcoholic fermentation: in concrete (each block fermented separately)
Malolactic fermentation: yes
Élevage: in concrete for 1 year on the lees / further 6 months in bottle
Alcohol: 13.5%
Production: 20,000 bottles
Closure and bottle: natural cork, 750 ml, Burgundy bottle
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Service Temperature: 58-65 F
Drink: now to 2030
Decant: yes, or drink over 2-3 days
Pairing: grilled steak / mushroom pizza / bucatini all'amatriciana