2017 Passopisciaro Passorosso
Andrea Franchetti is, perhaps, the purest of the "outsiders" who descended upon Mt Etna in the early 2000s, realizing the fantastic possibilities of Etna wines in a region that had for centuries farmed grapes for bulk production and table wine.
The soils here are all volcanic, quite literally. Lava flows, old and new(er), are evident in and around the vineyards, which are planted in interspersed areas of decomposed lava rock. Franchetti was the first to highlight the differences of each lava flow parcel vineyard (these are usually in terraces with surrounding walls, and called "contradas"), depending on mineral composition and, crucially, on how the lava had cooled and broken down (powdery, sandy, gravelly, rocky, etc).
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This 2017 Passorosso is 100% nerello mascalese, full of wild berries, dark cherry, and pomegranate up front, with classic camphor on the rich, lush palate, big tannins, and a finish of strong minerality. You'll definitely want to decant this, as it gets bigger and more beautiful with more air. Drink it with gamey meats or a juicy steak, or any other big, rich winter meal.

Producer: Passopisciaro (Andrea Franchetti)
Name of Wine: Passorosso
Vintage: 2017
Region: Sicily, Italy
Appellation: Etna Rosso DOC
Varietal(s): 100% nerello mascalese
Agriculture: organic and biodynamic
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Vineyard/Winery Location: Passopisciaro, Catania, Sicily, Italy
Vineyard Name: (multiple vineyards)
Soil Type(s): volcanic
Altitude: 550-1100m / 1800-3300 ft
Exposure: north / northeast
Age of Vines: 80-110 years
Planting Density: 8000 vines/hectare
Graft Selection: massal
Harvest: hand harvested / 20-29 October 2017
Yeild: 4000 kilograms/hectare
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Yeasts: native yeasts
Alcoholic fermentation: 15 days in stainless steel
Malolactic fermentation: in large oak barrels
Élevage: 10 months in large oak barrels & cement / 6 months in bottle
Alcohol: 14.5%
Production: 5,000 cases
Closure and bottle: natural cork, 750 ml, Burgundy bottle
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Service Temperature: 55-65 F
Drink: now to 2028
Decant: yes / or drink over 2-3 days
Pairing: winter soups and stews / seared tri-tip steak