Liatiko, like many Greek varietals, is a very old grape. In production since at least the 3rd Century BC, it was best known, like many other ancient wines, as a dessert wine (still made today by drying the grapes on mats in the sun, to concentrate sugars). Sweet wines, in the ancient world, were wines that wouldn't spoil, before the advent of insulated glass bottles (in the 1600s) and later, refrigeration (late 1800s).

Nowadays litaiko remains an extremely under-the-radar grape. Grown mostly on the eastern half of Crete, there exist only two specific appellations for the varietal: Dafnes and Sitia. Dafnes, where the Douloufakis winery is located, sits toward the middle of the island (Sitia is at the very eastern end), just south of the capital, Heraklion. Nikos Douloufakis now runs the family estate.

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This 2018 has brambly fruit, blueberry and blackberry up front, and lots of spice. Medium-bodied on the palate with soft tannins, which open up with decanting, and a touch of bitterness. A quintessential rustic red, good with goat cheese, onion or garlic-heavy dishes, dolmas, or lamb gyros.