Grignolino, among the leanest and meanest of the Piemontese reds, is a standout in the group of lesser-known red grapes of the region: freisa, vespolina, croatina (to name a few). It is grown mainly in the Monferrato Hills around Asti, where it originated, in the north of Piedmont, part of the same UNESCO heritage region as the Langhe and the Roero.

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The Russo family runs a farm and winemaking operation (as well as an agriturismo) called "Crotin", a Piemontese word that refers to the underground cellars dug into the clay and used for wine and other storage. They farm organically and with biodiversity at the forefront, producing, with winemaker Cristiano Garella, all single-vineyard bottlings of both red and white grapes.

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The soils here are former seabed, from the Pliocene, and are full of seashell fossils, thus the nautilus on the label. Grignolino in particular benefits from the sunnier days and cool nights of this inland region, allowing it to ripen fully but remain light on the palate.

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This extremely drinkable 2018 has aromatic woodsy raspberry up front, and a clean, bright, tannic finish, very much like a nebbiolo-light. It's amazing on its own, or with winter-squash agnolotti, mushroom risotto, or meats like game hen or duck.